BANVIE Car Alarm System RFID Push Engine Start Button & Keyless Go System for Vehicle Anti-Thief Double Layer Start Protection

Works perfectly and easy to install.

This was an easy and affordable way to remove the key start from my boat and turn it into a pushbutton start with safety features. My key start switch was in a bad place and the key kept getting bumped and bent, so I wanted to install a switch that would be flush with the dash. (or nearly so)This switch has a proximity sensor and a "brake pedal switch" that I wired to the blower circuit. The end result is that the switch locks out the switch until you use the fob to "unlock it." Even then, unless the blower is in the "on" position- the engine will not start or stop. This means that if it gets accidentally bumped while running wide open- it won't kill the engine unless I am also running the blower. I always run the blower to start the engine and don't run it afterwards- so this makes a great safety for the way I use my boat. Hopefully this switch lasts a long time, because it works flawlessly!!

First off, the install was super simple. Secondly, the install was super simple. All you have to do is follow the instructions that are provided and you will definitely get this working in no time. The only this I don't like about it is the auto lock after like 15 seconds. A future upgrade would be to possibly add a wire that connects to your after market alarm system to arm and disarm the push start when you arm or disarm your aftermarket or factory alarm system. But for the price, you can't beat it. And it's small so you can put it anywhere.

After running into this problem, yes, I searched and found out it wasn't designed for manual cars. Anyways....I do have an older car, a 97. I installed everything myself and it worked perfectly, at first. Without brake pedal pressed: 1 hit = radio on, 2 hits = windows/AC. Brake pedal in with push start and it works! So I tested it by starting the car before scanning, and boom, it went. It bypassed it!?!? So I was shocked and checked all the wires again. Switched some around and it didn't go. Switched them back and it went, so it was right the first time. I was bummed but eventually came up with a method.2 switches: relay and momentary switch....You have to "open" the clutch signal wire. You HAVE to use a relay because you HAVE to pull off the Banvie unit's ACC power, which only activates after it is scanned, to protect your clutch with the system. So the relay to the clutch signal will connect after the relay is triggered off the Bavie's ACC power. BUT!, you need another switch for that if u want to be safe. This switch will power on/off ACC power to relay. Use a momentary switch because you want the relay on ONLY when you start the car. Im pretty sure the relay will be okay if ifs always on, but the clutch signal switch isn't designed to always be on.MAJOR NOTE: you can't just move the brake wire from the Banvie unit to the clutch because like I said, your clutch signal switch will bypass the system even before its scanned. Hence, you have to do what I said with a relay.To start (different from automatic). Turn ACC power on after scanning. This gives Banvie's ACC line power. Switch on/hold the momentary switch, which will give power to relay, which will connect the clutch signal. Turn key to start while holding momentary switch. For mine, I dont have to step on clutch because I wired the clutch signal harness back into itself to "close" the ciruit, after I disconnected it from the sensor. If you leave the sensor connected but cut one of the clutch signal wires, you will to need step on clutch to activite the clutch singal.Great product otherwise. Crazy start up medoth, but I love that I can use either the Banvie system or my key for radio/windows.

So if you have no experience with electrical wiring buy a better quality one your gonna spend that money on install for me install was supper easy but I used a multi meter just to compare what there box was actually doing because the instructions are written in broken English so the two wire that goes to the brake it says "other side of switch " so when your foot is off the break the switch is open so check the wires with your multi meter Vdc put one meter lead to ground the other to the wires one at a time one should have close to 12 vdc the other wiĺ have nothing attach the blue wire there now when you press the brake you close the switch sending 12 vdc to that wire now your telling it foots on the brake red will go to your standing 12 vdc at ignition or wire it to positive on the battery now if you've made it this far your close My ignition was 4 wires older impreza 97 12v all the time is black with white stripe (red) my acc is black with blue stripe (blue wire on harness provided my acc2 was a solid black wires and that went to white on the harness and my starter wire black with yellow these color codings are pretty typical but had it just die in traffic so I just yanked all the wires twisted white and red then touched yellow car started oh despite what you may hear it was designed for manuals as well find the hand break there's a wire that turns the brake light on your dash wire the 2 wire blue there that's for manuals

It is one of the best upgrades that I have done on my grand cherokee

The media could not be loaded. I finally was able to get the product to function. The instructions are written in such horrible english they almost don't make sense. I've spent hours trying to make this function. Please note that the key fob has to be basically in the ring there is no range on the key fob.

The media could not be loaded. For the price I couldn't resist picking one of these up for my golf cart with HF predator engine swap. The only issue was shutting the engine back off, which was remedied with running ign1 to a NC relay to complete the magneto/coil kill when button turns off. Works great so far!